How to Prepare Your Trophy for the Taxidermist

The First Hours Are Critical

The difference between a mount that looks spectacular and one that looks mediocre often comes down to what happened in the field — long before it reached the taxidermist's workbench. Improper handling in the hours after harvest can cause hair slippage, skin rot, and damage that even the best taxidermist can't fix.

Big Game: Deer, Elk, Bear, and Antelope

The #1 Mistake: Cutting Too Far Forward

If you want a shoulder mount, you need a cape — the hide from the head, neck, and shoulders. The most common mistake hunters make is cutting too far forward when field dressing, which ruins the cape.

The rule: Make your initial cut at least 6–8 inches behind the front legs. You can always cut off excess hide later; you can't add it back.

Caping in the Field

If you're hunting far from your taxidermist and plan to haul the deer out whole, you can delay caping. But if you're in warm weather (above 40°F) or will be traveling more than a few hours, cape the animal in the field:

1. Make a cut around the body behind the front legs
2. Cut up each front leg to the knee
3. Peel the hide forward toward the head, working carefully around the ears and eyes
4. Cut the head off at the last neck vertebra (near the skull)
5. Leave the head inside the cape — the taxidermist will finish the caping

Preserving the Cape

Once capped:

• Cool it immediately — hang in shade or place in a cooler with ice (not directly on ice — use a bag to prevent water damage)
• Salt it generously if you won't reach a freezer within 24 hours — use non-iodized salt and work it into every surface, especially around the ears, eyes, and lips
• Freeze it if you won't get to the taxidermist within a few days — roll the salted cape with the hair on the outside and freeze flat

Never put a fresh cape in a plastic bag without cooling first — trapped heat accelerates bacteria growth and causes hair slippage within hours.

For the Skull

If keeping antlers attached to the skull plate, don't boil or clean the skull yourself unless you're doing a DIY euro mount. Just keep it cool and let the taxidermist handle it.

Fish

Option 1: Take the Live Fish to the Taxidermist

The absolute best option. Alive fish allow the taxidermist to photograph natural coloration before it fades.

Option 2: Take High-Quality Photos First

Fish colors fade dramatically within hours of death. Before doing anything else, photograph the fish from both sides in bright, natural light. These reference photos are essential for color matching during painting.

Option 3: Freeze It

If you can't get to the taxidermist quickly:

• Wet the fish with water before freezing — this helps preserve color
• Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, then in aluminum foil, then in a freezer bag
• Freeze flat, not folded — a kinked fish is a nightmare to mount
• Label with your name, species, length, and weight

Don't gut the fish — many fish taxidermists want the whole fish intact. Ask your taxidermist first.

Reproduction Mounts

Consider a fiberglass reproduction if you want to release the fish or if you're fishing in cold winter conditions where freezing damages skin. For a repro, you need accurate measurements (length, girth, weight) and photos — the fish itself isn't required.

Birds

Cool Immediately

Feathers slip (fall out) quickly in warm conditions. Get the bird into a cooler as fast as possible. Keep it dry — wet feathers mat and can cause mold.

Do NOT Gut the Bird

Leave the bird intact. Gutting is the taxidermist's job and opening the body cavity risks damaging the feathers.

Freeze Correctly

If you can't get to the taxidermist within 24 hours:

• Fold the wings naturally against the body
• Wrap loosely in paper towels (absorbs moisture)
• Place in a plastic bag and freeze

Never freeze a turkey in full strut — the tail fan will break. Lay the tail flat against the body or have the taxidermist fan it separately.

Communicating With Your Taxidermist

When you drop off the trophy, bring:

• Reference photos if you have them
• Measurements (fish especially)
• Your vision for the pose and habitat
• Any special story about the hunt (taxidermists appreciate context — it helps them capture the right mood)

Looking for a taxidermist in your area? Search our directory to find studios near you. Calling ahead to discuss your specific trophy and their process is always worth 10 minutes.